Haute Couture to Future Materials: Embroidery, Craft and Sustainable Sequins

Haute Couture to Future Materials: Embroidery, Craft and Sustainable Sequins

In this online talk for the Royal School of Needlework, Embroidery and Textile designer Sophie Boylan will discuss her journey from studying embroidery to establishing her practice as a freelance designer, exploring the experiences, techniques and material investigations that have shaped her work.

Sophie will reflect on how her academic journey, from her MA in Textile Design at the Royal College of Art to her training and professional experience within the fashion industry, has shaped her approach to embroidery. She will place particular focus on her participation in the 2025 CHANEL & The King’s Foundation Métiers d’art Embroidery Fellowship, discussing her experience of being mentored by Maison Lesage and spending a week sampling within its Parisian atelier. This rare opportunity offered an insight into the inner workings of one of the world’s most renowned embroidery houses. Sophie will share what she learned about the specialist techniques, precision and craftsmanship that underpin haute couture embroidery, while reflecting on the importance of preserving traditional skills within contemporary fashion.

The talk will also explore the history of the sequin, tracing its evolution from ancient Egyptian adornment to the flapper fashions of the 1920’s and it’s development into the embellishment we recognise today. Sophie will consider how the sequin’s materials and uses have changed over time before examining the lasting environmental consequences of modern plastic sequins, including their impact on wildlife and the implications of microplastic pollution for human health. These concerns prompted her to begin experimenting with biodegradable plastic alternatives during her MA, eventually leading her to focus exclusively on bio-based sequins that seek to retain the visual appeal and tactile qualities of traditional embellishments while reducing their environmental footprint.

Now undertaking a Future Materials Fellowship at Jan van Eyck Academie in the Netherlands, Sophie will share her ongoing research into cellulose and seaweed-based sequins. She will offer insight into the processes, challenges and discoveries involved in developing new embellishment materials, including experiments to improve water resistance and durability while maintaining biodegradability.

Sophie will also share her experience of applying for a QEST (Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust) grant to undertake further specialist haute couture embroidery training at École Lesage in Paris. Having successfully secured funding on her first application, she will reflect on the application process and offer practical advice for others pursuing similar opportunities for professional development.